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 M12 OJOS DEL SALADO is at 6880m the highest peak in Chile and the highest volcano in the world. It is located some 5 hours east of Copiapo, which itself is located a 12- hour drive north from Santiago, the capital. The volcano rises from a very dry, desert like Andean high plateau or altiplano of 5200m, near the San Francisco Pass, which leads into neighboring Argentina. The ascent is not technically difficult except for the last 20 meters to the top where steeper rocks have to be climbed. But altitude and freezing cold temperatures with strong winds can make ascensions sometimes demanding or even impossible. Proper acclimatization is a must and our program below takes that into account by spending considerably time to adjust to those high altitudes. M12 : 19 days / 18 nights Day 1 We pick you up at the airport or bus station in Copiapo and bring you to your hotel in town for the first night. The rest of the day and tomorrow morning are at your own disposal to rest after your long journey and take in the sites of this mining town, capital of the Third Region of Chile. Day 2 At 1pm we leave Copiapo and start our expedition by driving east taking the international road leading to Argentina. Leaving the oasis town behind us, the region turns rapidly arid and we start moving up gradually higher the Andean mountain range. After some 3 hours we arrive at a 4000m pass, which leads us to our first camp site at the Santa Rosa Lagoon. It is one of the few water bodies found up there and located close to the Salar de Maricunga, a large salt plain. We spend three nights there at around 3600m to get properly acclimatized to the high altitude. Day 3 Today we undertake an easy hike around the lagoon which lasts some 3 hours. The trail leads us through some small arid hills and then we cross the salt plain to get back to the refuge. On the way we get to observe graceful flamingoes and other birds, which are encountered around the small lagoon in search of food. The afternoon is spent relaxing around the camp. Day 4 In the morning we hike up to the top of Maricunga, a hill of some 5000m located near the campsite. The trail is on sandy and rocky terrain leading gradually up to the peak of the mountain. On top we are awarded with great views to the salar and volcanic peaks in the vicinity, like Copiapo and Tres Cruces. The whole hike takes some 6 - 7 hours. Day 5 We pack up in the morning and move to our next camp site at Laguna Verde. The drive takes some two hours with a stop at the cascade of the Rio Lamas, the only river we will encounter on our journey. We take advantage of that to fill up our water provisions as afterwards we will not find that precious liquid anymore. Laguna Verde is a larger lake already situated at 4300m and surrounded by volcanoes and boasts of hot thermal baths. That gives us a chance to relax in them and also to clean ourselves up. Day 6 Today we hike around the lake taking in the beautiful surroundings. The hike takes some 4-5 hours and the afternoon is then spent again relaxing, taking a swim in the lake or enjoying again the hot springs. Day 7 In the morning we start trekking to our next camp site, located at Barrancas Blancas at around 4500m. The hike takes the whole day by climbing first up to Mulas Muertas, a volcano of 5890m. We then descend on the side of the mountain to the Murray refuge, which is located at the foot of the Barrancas Blancas mountain range. Day 8 We put in a rest day after yesterday's long hike. In the daytime if so wished a practice session in the rocks can be arranged. There we explain how to secure oneself on a fixed rope. That will be needed on the last part up to the top of Ojos del Salado. Day 9 Today we continue our acclimatization process by climbing our first 6000m plus peak. For that we choose the nearby Barrancas Blancas. The climb takes the whole day and gives us an excellent indication of our present physical state. Day 10 One more rest day after yesterday's long hike. That gives the body a chance to properly recover. Day 11 Today we hike to our next campsite called Atacama, which is already located at the foot of Ojos del Salado at 5200m. This is our last long hike and hopefully afterwards our bodies and minds are then properly adjusted to the high altitude. Day 12 Today we carry food and water up to the Tejos refuge, located at 4800m. The hike up takes some 2-3 hours and afterwards we go down again to our campsite at Atacama. Day 13 We all go up to Tejos refuge, carrying the last things up there for staying the night and prepare ourselves for tomorrow's early summit attempt. Day 14 We get up early in the morning at 4.30 am and after breakfast start our first attempt of climbing to the top at 5am. The first part of our climb is fairly straight up, zigzagging upwards on sandy paths. After 4 hours, we come to the spot, where we have to cross snowfields to get to the right to arrive at the crater rim. From there we have a complete view of the horseshoe shaped caldera and take the path inside it, leading to the steep part just before reaching the peak. The last 20 meters are steep and some climbing is needed along the ridge of the peak. The whole climb from the refuge to the top takes around 8 hours and we need then 2-3 hours to get back. After a short rest we pack up and move down to our base camp at 5200m if the climb was successful. Day 15 If we reached the top, we pack up and drive by way of El Salvador to Pan de Azucar National Park. This park is located at the ocean and gives us some well deserved rest after that demanding climbing excursion. If we did not reach the top, we put in a rest day and try again the following days. Day 16 Pan de Azucar or another try to climb Ojos del Salado. Day 17 Pan de Azucar or another try to climb Ojos del Salado. Day 18 Pan de Azucar or return from the mountain to Copiapo. Day 19 Transfer to airport or bus station in Copiapo.
For a photo journal of my
last trips to this impressive
volcano, click to tour.climbing.ojosdesalado. |
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