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 M13 DOS MAXIMA On this challenging expedition we try to climb both Aconcagua, which is at 6960m the highest peak in the Americas and Ojos del Salado, at 6880m representing the highest volcano in Chile and the world. Although Aconcagua is higher than Ojos del Salado, its normal route is an easier climb and therefore we start our excursion there by first getting properly acclimatized as the high altitude is the principal foe in our endeavor. Freezing cold temperatures with strong winds can also make ascensions sometimes demanding and even impossible and thus extra days are planned in case of adverse climate conditions. M13 : 26 days / 25 nights Day 1 We start our expedition at the airport in Santiago, where we pick you up and bring you to your hotel. Depending on your arrival time, the day will be spent sightseeing in the capital. Day 2 In the morning we leave by public long-distance bus for Mendoza in Argentina, where we have to get our climbing permits and last chance of food supply and equipment. Day 3 In the morning we drive up to Puente Inca and arrive there at noon and first we leave our equipment at our mule providers. After lunch we finally begin our expedition by hiking 3 hours from the Ranger station Horcones up the valley to Confluencia, our first tent camp site, located at 3300m, where we spend the next two days for proper acclimatization purposes. Day 4 Today we undertake a 4-5 hour trek towards Plaza Francia, starting point for those crazy and experienced climbers, trying to climb the 3000m steep Pared Sur or Southern Wall. After lunch there, we turn back and return to our Confluenzia tent site. Day 5 We move now on towards Plaza de Mulas, main base camp for climbing Aconcagua by the normal route. This hike along the Upper Horcones River takes about 6 hours and leads us first through a broader valley. At the end a steeper rise has to be managed to arrive at the camp site located at 4300m. Day 6 Today we put in a rest day. You may on your own explore the surrounding area by visiting a hotel, which is located across the valley or a glacier coming down from the Mt. Cuerno peak. Day 7 After breakfast we start to prepare our final assault on the mountain by carrying part of our equipment and food provisions up to our second camp, located at Nido de Condores at 5300m. The hike up there is steep and demanding and will take 5-6 hours. After storing our things there, we return back to Plaza de Mulas. Day 8 Another free day to rest and to do things on your own. Day 9 We move now the rest of our equipment and ourselves up to Nido de Condores, from where we try to climb the peak. The afternoon is spent on this high plateau, which offers beautiful views to the Andes range to the west and south. Weather permitting, spectacular sunsets can be observed from there. Day 10 By daybreak we undertake a hike up to Independencia at 6000m and get to know part of the route passing Camp Berlin. The hike up and back will take 5-6 hours. Afternoon we rest and get ready for next day's climb to the top. Day 11 At 5 a.m. we get up and after a quick breakfast we attempt our first ascent to the peak. The climb to the peak may take from 7 to 10 hours depending on your condition and the climate. After spending some time on the roof of the Andes and admiring the great all-around views, we return to Nido de Condors, which should take between 3-4 hours. Time permitting we might pack up and move down to our base camp at Plaza de Mulas. Day 12 If we did not reach the top we put in a rest day at Nido de Condor. Day 13 We try again to reach the top. Day 14 We start our walk out of Aconcagua Provincial Park, leaving Plaza de Mulas and hiking straight to Horcones Ranger station, where we arrive after 9-10 hours. The night we spend in Puente Inca. Day 15 We take the public bus back to Santiago de Chile. Day 16 This day is spent in Santiago, resting and sightseeing. Day 17 In the morning we leave by bus for Copiapo, a larger mining town located north of Santiago. The drive takes some 12 hours and leads us through the unpopulated deserts of northern Chile, only broken up occasionally by smaller settlements and larger towns, situated in the greener river valleys or oasis. We spend the night in Copiapo. Day 18 Today we hire a 4x4 vehicle and drive straight to our base camp at 5200m, which is already situated at the foot of Ojos del Salado. On the way there we have time to do some sightseeing by visiting the Salar de Maricunga and the Laguna Verde. Day 19 We undertake some smaller hikes in the area to explore. Day 20 In the morning we move up to the second refuge at 5800m. We carry our food supply for the next few days up there. The hike takes 3-4 hours following the jeep tracks up the volcano. Day 21 We get up early in the morning at 4.30 am and after breakfast start our first attempt of climbing to the top at 5am. The first part of our climb is fairly straight up, zigzagging upwards on sandy paths. After 4 hours, we come to the spot, where we have to cross snowfields to get to the right to arrive at the crater rim. From there we a complete view of the horseshoe shaped caldera and take the path inside it leading to the steep part just before reaching the peak. The last 20 meters are steep and some climbing is needed along the ridge of the peak. The whole climb from the refuge to the top takes around 8 hours and we need then 2-3 hours to get back. After a short rest we pack up and move down to our base camp at 5200m if the climb was successfully Day 22 If we did not reach the top, we put in a rest day at the refuge at 5800m. Day 23 We try again, look at Day 21. Day 24 We pack up and drive back to Copiapo, where we return the vehicle and spend the night in a hotel. Day 25 We take the long-distance bus back to Santiago de Chile and spend the night there. Day 26 Transfer to the International Airport of Santiago de Chile.
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