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M15 HUASCARAN This climbing expedition is put together for climbers, who like to do a very challenging program in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca. It is put together for intermediate-skilled to experienced climbers with some technical ice climbs but for the most part high altitude ice hiking. This 3-week tour starts by getting first well acclimatized by day hikes and then climbing Pisco, a peak of at 5752m. The last part are climbs to the top of Chopicalqui at 6354m and finally Huascaran, the highest peak of Peru at 6768m. Day 1 Arrival in Huaraz and transfer to Caraz. Day 2 Free morning in Caraz and in the afternoon visit to the Cordillera Negra to observe from there the many snow-covered peaks of the Cordillera Blanca at sunset. Day 3 After lunch we leave Caraz and drive up the valley of Llanganuco by way of Yungay. After paying the park entrance fee, we stop at the first lake, Orconcocha and hike then up to Cebollapampa. The van continues on there and drops our equipment there. Cebollapampa will be our base camp for climbing Pisco and Chopicalqui. Day 4 Today we undertake an acclimatization hike to the Laguna 69 located at the foot of grand Chacraraju. This beautiful blue lake lies over 4600m and the whole hike takes 6 hours. Day 5 Today we do some more hiking to get well acclimatized for our climbs. We walk up to the Portachuelo de Llanganuco pass at 4767m and crossing then another pass hike back to our base camp. Today's trek takes 8-9 hours and is a good preparation for the following climbs. Day 6 Today we take it easy by moving up from Cebollapampa to the Pisco and Huandoy base camp located at 4650m. The hike takes 3 hours and the afternoon is spent resting for tonight's climb of Pisco. Day 7 At 1 am we start our climb of Pisco. First we have to crisscross a large moraine and we need 3 hours to negotiate through the many rocks to reach the glacier at 4900m. After putting on our ice-climbing gear we move on the glacier and it takes another 4 hours to reach the top of Pisco. After admiring the great views from there, we return to base camp and after lunch then back to Cebollapampa. Day 8 After yesterday's climb we put in a rest day in Cebollapampa. Day 9 We start our excursion of Chopicalqui by hiking midway up the pass and then taking the trail crossing the moraine of this mountain. We put up our moraine camp, near some huge rocks, which are already located near the glacier. Day 10 We move into the glacier and move farther up and put up our high camp at 5600m. From here we have spectacular views to Huascaran, Huandoy and Chacraraju. Day 11 We climb to the summit by taking the steep southwest ridge. After staying for a short while on top we descend straight back down to moraine camp. Day 12 Extra day for Chopicalqui in case we need a second try. Day 13 We drive back to Caraz, where a well deserved hot shower awaits us. Day 14 Rest day in Caraz to get ready for the last part of our excursion. Day 15 We leave Caraz and drive south on the main highway to Mancos, where we take the then turn-off to Musho, reaching this small village after 2 hours. We unload our equipment and start the 3-hour hike to our first camp site located at 4400m. Day 16 Today we have a hard day at hand, moving through difficult terrain of glacial moraine with huge rocks in between to our next camp located at 5300m. The whole hike takes 7 hours. Day 17 In the morning we start our ascent to our last camp at 6000m, which is situated in the saddle which separates the southern from the northern summit. Locally this place is known as ¨La Garganta¨ or ¨The Throat¨. On this stretch some technical ice climbing is necessary as many seracs and crevasses are encountered here. Also this part is dangerous because of possible serac falls and the quicker we move the safer it is. Day 18 We start our climb to the summit of the southern peak (or northern peak if so desired or conditions warrant it). The climb takes 7 hours and tests our endurance. After a short while on top we return to the high camp reaching it after a 3 to 4 hour descent. Day 19 We hike all the way back to base camp, our first camp site at 4400m, where we spend our last night in tents. Day 20 Extra day if needed. Day 21 Drive to Huaraz where we end our climbing adventure.
Note:
In the price of the tour are included all airport transfers,
all the refuge and hotel stays, the flight from Quito to Santiago and
back, all
transport to the mountains and back, the food provisions while climbing and
of course guiding. |
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